24 Hours in Banos, Ecuador

You know you are in a strange and exotic land when, upon arrival at your hotel, you are given a map showing evacuation routes and instructions in the event of a volcanic eruption. Such was the case when we showed up in Banos, Ecuador where the Tungurahua volcano loomed over everything. The fact that this volcano is very active, erupting most recently in 2014, was somewhat unsettling. Blind faith was what made us believe we’d get in and out of town in 48 hours without a mishap.

Tungurahua volcano.

The volcano looms menacingly over the village of Banos. 

With the dangers come the stark beauty of Banos. Its setting in a deep valley of lush and verdant hillsides is remarkable. Without hesitation, both MK and I agree that this is the prettiest place we’ve been in the whole of mainland Ecuador.

This opinion was heightened when we rented mountain bikes the following day and headed out on the Ruta de las Cascades, the Highway of the Waterfalls. Our route took us on what at times was a busy road through and adjacent to tunnels, small villages, and overlooks as it wound its way down the valley and then canyon formed by the Rio Pastaza. As the name aptly suggests, this route is filled with waterfalls of differing heights, water volume, and wow factors.

In particular, the Pailon del Diablo, the Devil’s Cauldron, was one of the most fantastic waterfalls we’ve seen anywhere in all of our travels. Well-trodden paths and stairways on both sides of the falls led us down and past this majestic display of nature, getting us wet from the spray and mist from its powerful forces.

At one point, the path was accessible only by those small in stature given that one of many viewing platforms required one to squeeze through a small, cave-like opening. That ruled me out, but not MK. She found her way through to an area drenched with mist. From my vantage point, watching her negotiate this small opening must have reminded her what it was like going through her mother’s birth canal some fifty-five years ago.

By mid-afternoon, we and other cyclists hired a truck to haul us and our bikes back uphill to Banos. We were deposited at an unremarkable corner from where we had to weave our way through the town’s weekend tourist traffic to the side street where our bike shop was located.

Not having enough adventure for the day, we boarded a public bus for a ride up the slopes of the volcano to Casa del Arbol, a tree house with swings attached that make you feel like you are about to jump off the edge of the world. Despite being somewhat of a tourist trap, it was good fun and a nice way to end a long and full day.  

A rainy Sunday was spent wandering town, sitting in on a morning mass, chatting with street merchants, and looking for cheap eats in the central mercado.

This poor pig had the indignity of not only being slaughtered, but also of being made fun of afterwards. 

Guinea pig, anyone?

In the late afternoon, with rain still coming in sporadic, unpredictable squalls, we wandered over to the thermal baths (Banos, get it?) for a good soak in the mineral-rich and hot waters, heated by the area's volcanic activity. Our skin still tingled when we retired to bed later in the evening. 

To see more on our biking in Banos and other areas in Ecuador, please see the following video: