Hiking the “W” Route in Torres Del Paine National Park

Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

This is part 3 of a 4 part series on our experiences in hiking and trekking in various areas of Patagonia, Argentina. For a look at the other parts of the series, please use the term “Patagonia” when using the search function.

Grey Glacier

It was spitting rain as we boarded the catamaran for the 1/2-hour ride across Lake Pehoe to Refugio Paine Grande and the trailhead. After checking in, we braved the elements and began our out-and-back day hike towards Grey Glacier, the first leg of the classic "W" trek through Torres del Paine National Park.

The low cloud ceiling and constant rain obscured any views of the distant peaks. Certainly, we thought after an hour of hiking, any views of the distant glacier toward which we were hiking would also be obscured.

Given that the forecast calls for more rain and cold for the remainder of the week, we felt it wasn't necessary to get any more wet today than we had to since when we weren't going to be able to see anything worthwhile and that we didn't need to make it to the next reserved refugio until tomorrow afternoon.  So, we abandoned plans for any further progress and headed back to Paine Grande for some warmth and comfort.

Many others must have had the same idea for there were dozens of us soggy and chilled trekkers gathered around the wood stove, they and their clothes spread out everywhere attempting to get at least somewhat dry and warm.

We were seated amongst a large group based out of the U.S. who were volunteering their time to help build and restore trails in the park. They were a dedicated bunch who live to trek and backpack. They work on trails around the world to give something back in exchange for that which they enjoy. We were fortunate to be seated with them when one pulled out his computer and gave a slide presentation of his backpack trip along the Continental Divide trail in the U.S. 

Another nearby group had animated conversations about the weather both today and for what was forecasted for the rest of the trek.  While we sat and shivered, they were putting on a brave face while standing around in their sodden clothes. It was as if they were bestowing upon themselves a badge of honor for braving the elements and enduring this cold and wet environment of this far corner of the world. "It's Patagonia!", they would frequently exclaim to each other as they shrugged their shoulders, "What else can you do?"

Valle del Frances

The forecast called for heavy winds and driving rain so we figured we would not be able to take the time needed to make the grueling climb up to the end of the French Valley to see what are supposed to be spectacular views. We lingered at the refugio eating breakfast and drinking our coffee believing we had ample time since we would bypass this longer part of the day's walk. After setting out, it became apparent that the forecast was off, at least as far as this morning was concerned, for the rains and winds never materialized.

We had a pleasant walk to the mouth of the French Valley taking pictures and taking our time. The views down to Lake Skottsberg and up above to the mountains and cliffs were impressive. The skies were still rain free when we reached the junction for the French Valley. Given how slow we had walked up to this point, we knew that any attempt to the top could not be done with the time needed to get to our next refugio before dark.

We instead decided to walk only a kilometer or so up this trail to find ourselves a nice lunch spot. Frances Glacier and other hanging glaciers loomed overhead. They cracked and boomed frequently. At times, they let loose a torrent of rock and ice, forming an impressive avalanche ending in an smoky explosion of billowing white powder. Every time we heard a boom, we would look to see if there was yet another avalanche. Often, it was just the glacier groaning and expanding. But there were times when other avalanches were seen when we heard the signal of some type of movement.

MK headed off for the three hour walk down to Refugio Cuerno, our stay for the night, while I headed up the valley for another 1/2 hour to see if there would be any views of the Towers of Paine (Torres del Paine) from this western vantage point, views that would be picture worthy. A persistent cloud bank prevented this for the most part with the towers being in view only briefly. I gave up on any further advance, turned around, and headed to the refugio myself, now and hour behind MK.

After hearing yet another boom from the glacier, I turned around to look. Instead of an avalanche, I saw a fast-moving bank of clouds and rain descending down the valley toward me. It was upon me in no time barely giving me a chance to don my rain gear. The forecast from this morning finally came due. Hard, cold, wind-driven rain hammered the valley. Normally, I would sweat under my rain gear due to the exertion of hiking. But not this time. The cold kept me from sweating and the rain gear kept me reasonably dry.

I made slippery and wet progress down the trail that followed the shoreline of Lake Nordenskjold. On again, off again, was the rain and hence my rain gear. My toe caught a rock or tree root and down I went to the ground getting scraped and muddy with a good bruising to my shoulder and forearm. I was a stumbling, mumbling, fumbling, and tumbling oaf. The sound I made hitting the earth and rock probably made others on the trail believe they heard yet again another avalanche coming from the glacier.

MK was waiting for me at the refugio. She said she had just as tough a time on the trail. She had fallen a couple of times as well. We nursed our wounds as we sat in the common area and later in our room. Strewn about in the room on every ledge, hook, and rafter were our and other trekker's clothes. The scent of wet, dirty clothes was more than noticeable. The place looked, and likely smelled, like a one of those back-street hovels one sees in some third world slum.

Each room had two, three - tiered bunks and one, two-tiered bunk.  We tried to figure out how we were going to negotiate our climb up and into the second and third tier that was assigned to us. Since we didn't do our Cirque du Soleil acrobat training before we left, it promised to be tougher than the trail hiking and climbing we had already done earlier today.

Lake Nordenskjold

The winds howled and buffeted the refugio overnight. At times, the building shook from some of the stronger 60mph gusts. At breakfast, we looked out of the dining area window. The winds abated somewhat but a heavy rain was falling making for a dreary, gray start to our day.

But sometimes, luck is on our side. We left on our day's hike just as the skies cleared enough to halt the rain. Other than some sprinkles here and there, the rest of our day's walk was rain free. We could see that only a few hundred feet above us, the mountainsides were covered with a fresh coating of snow. It seems the glaciers we had seen over the past couple of days had been replenished overnight.

            

Various river crossings were forded by hopping from one rock to another. Some crossings are served by a bridge. At one, an iron cross beam was a little higher than head high. My head was down, like it normally is when hiking rocky surfaces so I didn't see the beam. When I stepped up on the bridge decking, the full force of rising body jammed my head and neck right up into the underside of the iron beam.  I heard my skull and neck crack, compressing my vertebrae. It was very painful. I hope I haven't done some damage. I will be very sore in the morning I'm sure.

The trail followed a diagonal angle up the slope thereby lessening the impact of the gain in elevation that one would normally experience with a more common trail alignment. Behind us, the mountains and gorges from which we have hiked over the past several days were filled with dark, scudding clouds that moved swiftly from horizon to horizon, all of which trailed veils of rain that must be soaking those who are hiking in those areas.  In our area, it was a beautiful, if cold and windy day. The broad valley was below us with distant lakes and snow covered hills off in the distance. We were but little specks in this vast wilderness.

After 7 miles, we were at Refugio Chileno, our stay for the night. It is smaller than those we have been in so far. Like the past couple of nights, conditions promise to be crowded, loud, and a bit uncomfortable.   We do have one set of the same roommates that we had last night.  They are a brother and sister pair from Australia.  Two very likable folks.  We also ended up with a bottom and second tier bunk, so no acrobatic skills will be required for tonight.

Torres Del Paine

Since rain, sleet, and all kinds of bad weather prevented us from seeing The Towers of Paine (Torres del Paine) a couple of days ago when we made our ascent up the Valle del Frances, we instead hoped today we would see them with our ascent from Chileno up to the east side of the range.

Some in our refugio chose to rise before the sun so as to reach the top of the trail just as the day's first rays would strike the towers - a classic photo opportunity - the pictures of which are often seen when reading about Patagonia. The steady, chilly rain that was falling as they left motivated us to instead cinch up the sleeping bag tighter around shoulders for a few more hours of sleep.

We finally headed out of the refugio at 8:30 and made the ascent under cloudy skies. At this hour, the towers were still enshrouded. As we climbed, we hoped that the ceiling would lift briefly or just enough for us to see this magnificent view.

The climb became difficult when the trail turned from gravel and dirt to larger rocks and boulders over which we had to scramble, a task that would be impossible had we not had our trekking poles. The cold rain that started to fall earlier turned to sleet. It soon started spitting snow. Our barren and raw surroundings chilled us to the bone. The surrounding mountains and their weather systems were indifferent to our presence.

After a final rise, we were at the base of the towers. They stayed hidden while the emerald green lake below them rippled from the winds and the falling rain. We endured the cold and needle-like stings of the sporadic sleet for 50 minutes hoping for an appearance, but it never came. We reluctantly turned and headed back down, looking over our shoulder to see if there would be a sneak peek. But one never materialized.

What we wanted to see (photo by Henry Chen - Only a Day Away Travel)

What we saw instead

Back at the refugio, we hungrily downed our lunch before making a further descent down into the far-off valley where we would find our next refugio, the Torres Paine Centrale.  Intermittent rain and a constant cloud cover would follow us.

Far up in the mountains above us, all was just a large bank of gray, foggy clouds. The Towers of Paine stubbornly wouldn't show themselves to us, or anyone else, who had made this the center piece of their journey along the "W" trail in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park.

But hey, it's Patagonia! What else can you do?

A video of our "W" trek is at the following link: