Peruvian Mountain and Jungle Adventure

At times, it seemed the tips of our airplane’s wings touched the sides of the mountains as we flew through a steep walled valley and into Cusco, the ancient Inca city nestled high in the Andean mountains.

The streets were full of people and beggars as we later wound our way toward the Plaza de Armas, the famous central square in downtown Cusco. There were many sights and sounds, all very interesting.  We were really immersed in it now, a deep level of travel.

A taxi took us from the Plaza up to Sacsayhuaman, a fascinating old Inca ruin on the outskirts of town. Each large two ton stone was cut perfectly to fit the other equal sized stone adjacent to it.  It is still a mystery today as to how the Incas performed such masterful masonry work using only the rudimentary tools of 500 +/- years ago.

There were many Andeans serving as tour guides or posing for pictures in their customary dress and clothing while standing along-side their llamas and other beasts of burden.  One guide followed us as we were finishing, telling us some facts about the place and, in very broken English, impressed us with his valiant attempt to speak our language.  He showed us the way to the stone path leading us back down to Cusco central.  That advice alone was worth the s/5 tip. 

Down this path, there were more Andean woman in their native costume leading llamas and alpacas up the path.  We took pictures of one that tried to

shake us down for a s/20 propina, or tip.  She seemed upset and feigned hurt feelings that we only offered her s/10 instead.  The stone path continued its steep descent through the real, back streets of Peru.  It is amazing how people live.  We need to see this to be reminded of how good we have it in the United States.

Or bus on the following day’s 1-1/2 hour drive took us high up into the mountains. The rawness and desolation of our surroundings were stunning. We stopped in a rural village to watch Andean women weave their blankets and clothing.  They also showed us how they use natural products from their local environment to dye the fabric; mainly wool from alpacas.

From the plateau, we drove down into the Sacred Valley.  In a side stream, dozens of people were washing their clothes, using rocks to scrub away the dirt.  Our guide said that most do their wash on Saturdays, in anticipation of Sunday’s ceremonies.  According to custom, particularly since tomorrow is November 1^st, All Souls/Saints Day, people wash not only their own clothes, but those of their deceased ancestors, which they have kept, in the belief that their ancestors will someday return to the living and will want clean clothes for the occasion.

We were behind schedule with all of our photo stops. Our driver sped through one little village after another so that we could catch our 12:58 train out of Ollatyambo, the end of the highway.  We scurried from the bus to the train platform just in time.  We had fantastic scenery once again as the train rumbled down the river valley. In less than a year, this valley will be the site of a major flooding event destroying the tracks and stranding hundreds.  

Aguas Caliente was our stop for the night.  The streets and sidewalks were teeming with people, some getting on or off of the train, others trying to sell us merchandise from their market stalls that crowded the sidewalks, and others who simply sat and watched us and all others stroll by.  Our evening’s accommodation was a real rustic place, more like a hostel than a hotel.  Most of the larger, more modern hotels in Agua Caliente are owned by foreigners with only a few smaller ones owned by local people.  Since our tour company is only into sustainable tourism, it only books hotels owned by locals.

We rose early to catch the 5:30 a.m. bus up to Machu Picchu.  The early start was required if we were to get to the ruins in time to get passes to Huayna Picchu, the mountain one sees as the back drop to all pictures of Machu Picchu.  The drive up the dozens of switchbacks took about a half hour.  Through the gate, we received our passes, got our tickets stamped and then took a short walk to a point where we were presented with the most stunning view and panorama that we have ever witnessed.  The ruins are just amazing!  Words and pictures (although we took many) cannot describe the scene.  The sun was rising and illuminated the ruins with its soft early morning light.  It was emotional in a way, as we were in awe, and often teary-eyed.

After a couple of hours of this magnificence, we began our climb to the top of Huanya Picchu.  Huanya Picchu means “Young Mountain,” to complement Machu Picchu’s “Old Mountain.”  The climb up and back was tough, but very much worthwhile.  Many steep steps and switchbacks led to the top where a view back down was onto all of the Machu Picchu ruins. 

Back at the bottom, we lingered as long as possible before we boarded the bus for our trip back down to Aguas Caliente. In town, giant bottles of beer quenched our thirst and a veggie pizza soothed our gnawing hunger pangs.  I would have liked to have spent more time in this interesting town, but the scheduled train back to Cusco would not allow it.

The next morning, we flew to Puerto Maldonado, a little over ½ hour away.  We landed at the town’s international airport, no more than one crumbling runway and a building or two.  There were no gates nor any noticeable security; we just exited the plan via stairs and walked across the tarmac and into the so called terminal building.

A 45 minute bus ride via a very dusty and pothole filled road took us to a riverside port were we loaded onto a long motorized canoe for a 2-1/2 to 3 hour trip up river to our Amazon jungle lodge.  Along the way we saw river side shacks where the natives live, a capybara, the world’s largest rodent (the size of a very fat sheep or monkey), and other sites and sounds.  After the long boat ride, nearing sunset, we arrived at the lodge’s “port”, which was nothing more than a rickety wooden staircase leading straight down to the river’s edge; no landing, no dock, no nothing. 

Our lodge came into view after a 10 minute walk through the jungle via a foot path illuminated only by our headlamps. What a place!  It was much, much more than what we expected.  A large central building where the reception, bar and meal areas were housed was flanked by small buildings in which the guest rooms were located.  Our room was the most unique and, as it turned out, the most comfortable of the trip.  One “wall” was opened to the jungle so that while lying in bed, you can witness the sights and sounds of the Amazon region.  We had mosquito netting over the bed and curtains serving as doors (even for the front door).  There was electricity provided at the main lodge for 4 hours a day (5:30 – 9:30) in order to charge batteries for your cell phones and cameras. Candles and kerosene lanterns are used to light our rooms afterwards.

After a satisfying and delicious dinner, we headed back to the river to hunt for caimans in the dark.  Our guides found several using the boat’s spot light.  We also found two capybaras feeding at the shoreline.  The full moon made for an eerie but fascinating illumination of our surroundings.

A five hour trek through the jungle was the next morning’s highlight. The view from the canopy tower, 900+ feet in the air was spectacular.  We saw parrots and other creatures that inhabit the tree tops.

Back on the ground, we walked to an oxbow lake, slowly turning into a swamp will eventually turn back into a full jungle.  We hopped aboard a wooden flat-decked catamaran, which had seen better days.  The oarsman, apparently waiting at this remote spot just for us, paddled us around the lake where we viewed more flora and fauna, giant trees (200 – 300 years old), and a chance to feed piranhas using soda crackers.

We later learned more about the medicinal qualities of the jungle flora the locals use to cure all types of maladies.  We took a nibble from a leaf which the natives use to soothe toothaches.  This natural Novocain sure did numb our mouths! Other plants purportedly cure cancer, diarrhea, stomach aches, flatulence, even erectile dysfunction.  Afterwards, we boated across the river to an agricultural plantation.  There we saw and sometimes tasted many varieties of tropical fruits.  All delicious and most entertaining.

After a long journey the following day, we were back in Lima to spend some time before our flight back to the States. After dinner, we stopped at a tavern for what was supposed to be one drink when we met up with some Aussies, Brits and Danes. We all got smashed - stupid drunk - playing all sorts of bar games.  It was a lot of fun.  Those Aussies know how to drink!