Trekking Along Italy's Amalfi Coast

The crowded ferry took us along the coast for the 45 minute ride from Salerno to Amalfi. The boat, the town, the docks, the streets - all were overrun with hordes of tourists. But, we can't complain, for we are tourists too.

We found our hotel off of a hidden alleyway a short distance from the dock. The very nice Lidomare will serve as our home base for the next five days. Our beautiful room had a view of the docks and ocean.

We had difficulty finding the start of our day's hike. Quality maps are not to be had. Instead, we had to follow the turn by turn directions from the text in our little trail guide. Along the route, we discovered painted arrows pointing the way. Good thing, since it would have been impossible to find the correct route without them. The path took us into pedestrian tunnels, through tightly spaced alleyways, around one corner, then another, a short twisting staircase here, a really long staircase there.

The views of the coast and the little villages far below were incredible.  The marvelous little village of Ravello served as our lunch spot. From there, the route was largely downhill, again guided by arrows to help us find our way back to Amalfi.

Prices for restaurant meals are steep. So, we bought some groceries for our room and had sandwiches and chips for our dinner. However, the temptation was great, so back out we went to a gelato shop for a delicious evening treat.

The following morning’s bus ride took us up to Boomerano and the start of our day's hike. The twisting and winding road was barely wide enough for two cars, let alone our bus and approaching cars and trucks.  At one point, there was total gridlock since our bus and a truck met at a curve, couldn't go forward because of the pinch point, and couldn't reverse because of the other vehicles that had stacked up behind us.

Eventually, enough movement had occurred in the growing line behind us allowing both the truck and our bus some back up room and eventual space for a barely-there passage. This whole time, MK was absorbed in her book, missing the goings-on and the world class views of the steep drop offs and the distant ocean vistas beyond.

The Sentiero Degli Dei, also known as the Pathway of the Gods, was as spectacular as advertised. There were many of us at the start of the trail, but we all eventually dispersed and separated as time went on. We conversed with a couple from Oklahoma and another from Ireland, sharing trail maps, tips, and other excursion ideas for other days. Others from all over the US and Europe were on the trail with us. One woman was overdressed and soon overheated from the hot sun and exertion. She simple took off her sweater and hiked in her blue, lacy bra. You gotta love the Europeans.

Down below and far beyond were tiny villages and scattered houses, all accessible by the twisting roads or footpaths. Our way was slow due to all of the stops for pictures and sips from our water bottles to quench our thirst.

By mid afternoon, we were into Positano where we jostled our way through narrow lanes crowded with hordes of tourists, shopping for trinkets, food, and gelato. They were all fresh and smelled of perfume and cologne. Our sweaty bodies just had to be as noticeable to them as much as they we noticeable to us.We booked the 4:30 ferry for the ride back to Amalfi, foregoing the crowded and, at this point, late hour bus.

Our gracious hotel owner greeted us early the next morning. He agreed last night that his staff would start breakfast earlier than normal so that we could catch one of the first ferries to the Isle of Capri. We showed up on target, and his staff were waiting for us with fresh baked breads and croissants, fruit, cheeses, meats, and nice rich coffee.

The weather again was spectacular. The ferry ride was smooth and fast to the Island. We shortened the start of our hike with the use of a funicular which cut off having to make a 200-300 meter climb up from the ferry dock. It became very apparent that this is the place where the 1% live (maybe make that the 0.1%) while the rest of us 99%-ers just get to visit. Beautiful mansions and opulent hotels are located throughout.

Like many of our recent travels (and on this Italy trip itself), we encountered closed facilities and sites under renovation. One of the fancier private homes, otherwise open to the public, is closed on Wednesdays. Today, of course, is a Wednesday. Further on, a natural arch formation was being shored up by workers using a view-blocking stack of scaffolding. What gives?! While in Rome earlier in our trip, part of the Colosseum was covered in scaffolding. The Trevi Fountain was drained and being restored. Much of the same disappointment has occurred on past trips to other locations around the world. We just seem to show up at the wrong time.

But, these disappointments weren't universal. The rest of the Island had plenty of other beautiful sights and vistas of off shore rock formations, motoring boats and yachts far below, and scenes of houses perched on terraced slopes.

After spending a nice 6-7 hours in the Island, we returned to Amalfi on the last ferry, pulling into town as dusk settled in.

On again, off again rain greeted us in the morning. The sun tried to peek under the low ceiling of clouds as it snuck over the horizon. But, it was soon obscured and would stay that way the entire day.

So, with views limited due to the clouds, rain and haze, we chose to hike away from Amalfi and up valley into the Valle delle Ferriere.

MK was more than adventurous today, and pushed us into areas I wouldn't have otherwise gone had I been alone.

At the end of the valley is a notable natural area. But the nicest portion is back in further behind a fenced area. Our innkeeper back in Salerno gave us a tip for a way into this natural area. Being generally a rule follower, I didn't want to do it. MK on the other hand, and without hesitation, hung off of the chain link fence that blocked the way, leaned way out and over the moving water of the stream that bisected the area and, in short order, was into the forbidden area. So as to not have my manhood questioned, I followed suit. What other choice did I really have?

The walk in turned out to be a wonderful, Jurassic Park moment. Hanging ferns dripping water, a waterfall here, another there. Moss covered rocks lined the trail and covered the canyon walls.  The trail crisscrossed the stream, rocks and logs giving us wobbling footing as we moved along. It was cool, damp, and dark, for the deep canyon prevented any sun or heat from ever entering. I expected we'd soon see a dinosaur or two.

From there, a side trail contoured up the valley walls to the top where the small village of Pontone, where its barking dogs and its snorting pigs greeted us for a well deserved break for lunch. While eating, we gazed out over the valley noticing Amalfi far below (and a cruise ship anchored off shore with its tender ferrying passengers into town), and then, across the valley on the opposite ridge, another hamlet, this one being the small village of Pergola, our afternoon’s destination. To get there would require a relatively remote trail up the side of our ridge, to the valley's head wall, then back along the other ridge to this village. It looked to be around six miles according to our maps.

Along the way, we could hear the sheep herders far above us call out to their herd, clinging bells echoing off of the valley walls. At the far end, the trail became faint, with a side trail veering off to our left and down into the valley to natural area, the point we were at earlier in the day. It was getting late, and I was worried about finishing before dark. So, I suggested we bail out at this point. MK urged that we continue as planned. So, we compromised and continued as planned.

While the trail was still faint and overgrown, it eventually broadened and turned out to be a wonderful walk. Upon reaching Pergola, we found a nice little terraced restaurant and bar where we refreshed ourselves with food and drink before descending down the many steps and switchbacks that led us to the main touristy lane through Amalfi and our hotel.

The next morning’s ferries were stuck in port. Apparently, the seas were too rough away from the coast so all boats were not moving any passengers for the day. This made us, as well as hundreds of others, scramble for the buses that provide cheap, yet lengthier, options to get up and down the coast.

Last night's food didn't sit well with me and made me somewhat nauseous throughout the ride. Adding to my queasiness was the fact that our bus was jammed and hot. We got some of the last seats and last spaces in the overhead bin for our luggage. We were crowded in with others and their luggage, all crammed into every nook and cranny. It was hot, muggy, stifling, and, in some instance, stinky from other's body odor (some apparently forgot to use deodorant this morning).

I was sweating heavily, perspiration had formed on my upper lip. I asked MK if she had a plastic bag of any type or size, for I felt I was about to hurl. She sat ready, hand on a bag in her backpack in case the urge overwhelmed me. I don't know what would have been worse at this point: the rocking of a boat out on the ocean's swells and waves, or the twisting and turning of the crowded bus and the vertiginous feelings of looking out and down the precipitous cliffs. One can imagine how a person with a queasy stomach would feel in such an environment.

We made it to Salerno just in time. I quickly exited into the fresh air and feelings of relief. I had made it without a nasty incident. MK was relieved, for holding a bag of my vomit on the crowded bus would have been more than unpleasant.

We checked into our hotel, took a much needed nap, and commenced our self-guided walking tour through the old part of Salerno. The highlight was a beautiful church, its twelfth century steeple, and its ornate and well adorned interior. Paintings and sculptures captured our gaze. The embalmed body of Pope Gregory VII laid in a glassed-encased coffin.

A religious group descended into the downstairs crypt we had entered moments before They began to chant and sing their verses in what sounded like one of the eastern European languages, making the sign of the cross and, one by one, kneeled and prostrated themselves before a religious icon, kissing its marbled and glass exterior.

Humbled and tired from the long day, we headed back to the hotel in search of food and a restful night’s sleep.

A video of our Amalfi and Italy experiences is at the following link: