This is Part 1 of a 6
part series on my experiences while trekking along the Camino de Santiago (the
St. James Way) in northwestern Spain. To read other parts of the series, please
use the term “Spain” in this site’s search function.
The record is spotty, but many believe the story goes like this:
Soon after Christ's crucifixion, apostle James decided to travel to the Galicia
region in northern Spain, then believed to be at the end of the world. His
mission was to spread the new word of Christ's teachings to the people who
populated the area. His efforts met with limited success. Most of the pagans
there weren't buying into the message.
James returned to Jerusalem where he was promptly beheaded by Herod.
James's disciples took his remains back to Spain to be buried in what is now
the modern day Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. Over the centuries
since James's martyrdom and eventual canonization, the story endured and grew.
During the middle ages, it was the belief that if you made the pilgrimage and
walked the Camino de Santiago (the St. James Way) from points throughout Europe
to Santiago de Compostela, and overcame the hardships and travails while doing
so, you would be absolved of all of your sins.
Today, there are many different official routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. The principle route leaves Saint Jean Pied de Port in France and travels westerly for nearly 800 kilometers (about 500 miles) through northern Spain. Tens of thousands of people, or pilgrims, make the full trek, or portions of it, every year. Some do so still for religious reasons. Most others do so for spiritual, cultural, or basic tourist reasons.
Today, there are many different official routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. The principle route leaves Saint Jean Pied de Port in France and travels westerly for nearly 800 kilometers (about 500 miles) through northern Spain. Tens of thousands of people, or pilgrims, make the full trek, or portions of it, every year. Some do so still for religious reasons. Most others do so for spiritual, cultural, or basic tourist reasons.
Over the years, I heard about the St. James Way, always kept it in the
back of my mind, and placed it my brain's "a place to go someday"
file. And then the movie came out. Directed by Emilio Estevez and starring his
father, Martin Sheen, the movie "The Way" tells in simple and
understated, yet powerful terms, one man's journey along this old Christian
pilgrimage route to complete the trek his son had started but didn't finish due
to a tragedy along the trail.
This wonderful story prompted me to look at details, options, and
outfitters for MK and me to use to tackle the trek ourselves. The excellent
guidebook and map series by John Brierley gave us the background story told above
and provided very detailed route information and practical advice while walking
the route.
The entire 800 kilometer pilgrimage takes about 30 to 35 days to
complete. We may be crazy, but not that crazy. So, we will instead walk for
eleven days and will cover a 200 kilometer (approximately 125 miles) portion
of "The Way" from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. Fresco Tours
booked our tickets and accommodations and provided for our luggage transfers
and overall guidance for our largely independent trek. Fresco Tours has
grouped us with nine other trekkers, five from Australia and four from British
Columbia. Such a grouping allows for various efficiencies and economies for
Fresco in booking such a trip. Fresco will also provide a guide for part of our
first day while on the trail. This is to allow us to get accustomed to the
route, the way finding signs, and other matters pertaining to our daily walks.
But after that, we're on our own.
Our trek is for cultural and tourist reasons. It is said that many who
start out with such an intent end up finding meaning and spiritual renewal
instead. Only time will tell how this trip will end up for us.
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