Annapurna Sanctuary Trek - After the Trek

In 2013, MK and I trekked in Nepal’s Himalayas, spending time both pre- and post-trek in Kathmandu and Pokhara. This is the last of an 8 part series on our experiences. Please use this site’s search function to read other parts of this series.

The rigors of our 11 day trek up to Annapurna base camp and back had taken a lot out of us. Spending some leisure time in Pokhara, Annapurna’s gateway city, was a welcome respite.

We were drinking beer and eating some chips at one of the street side restaurants. While gazing out on the passing scene, we saw a fellow trekker from our earlier days on the trail. We called out to him and he joined us for a few beers.

Thomas was from Belgium. We met him earlier and the group of Canadians he was trekking with. He had been on the road, literally, since May. He has walked from his home in Belgium, through Eastern Europe, through the Middle East, with a stop in Iran (where, he said, a man tried to get him to marry his fifteen year old daughter). Not wanting to risk a crossing through Afghanistan and Pakistan, he took a flight to Dubai and then to Delhi to resume his land only journey.

He had not only finished the Annapurna base camp trek along with the rest of us, but he would soon be off on the 21 day Annapurna Circuit trek to be followed with a 15 day trek up to Everest Base Camp. From there, he was off to Southeast Asia, Australia, and New Zealand. Oh to be young again! He worked at a job he didn't like just long enough to finance his travels, quit when he reached his monetary goal, and has been on the road ever since.

Out on the sidewalk, his two Canadian tour companions walked by and soon were at the table with us, joining us in drinking even more beers. David and Harvey were from Vancouver. Harvey, who now was clean shaven and respectably dressed, was a former hippie who extolled the virtues of smoking pot. He said the only thing holding back Canada from legalizing the stuff was the U.S.'s reluctance to do so. 

The following morning, MK slept in while I went alone on the scheduled site seeing tour of Pokhara. My guide seemed to be rather disinterested in the whole thing, perhaps annoyed he had to conduct this tour given that today was a major Nepali holiday. In addition to some rather mundane sites was one very interesting visit to the central city temple where there were hundreds of locals giving offerings to the various Hindu gods. 

At one corner was a man whose job it was to behead the various animals the people brought to him, for sacrificing an animal is considered the upmost homage to their gods. The many herds of goats and other animals we saw the other day on our drive down from the mountains I now know were destined to be purchased by a local family and then sacrificed at a temple site such as this one.

People lined up with large chickens, their legs bound, squawking and trying to wriggle away. Others had their goats tethered by a string, dragging it up the stairs, getting closer and closer to their executioner. I stayed long enough to watch and film the beheading of some chickens; a gruesome scene for me; a religious ritual for all of the others. 

By 1:00 p.m. we were off to the airport where we had to once again endure the usual security measures. Both here in Nepal and in India, security steps include a lot of body searches and frisking. Men and women are herded into separate lines. Women are frisked by female guards behind a closed curtain. Men are frisked by male guards while standing on a raised platform out in the open. My guard copped a good feel of my junk while frisking me at this particular checkpoint. I thought he was going to ask me to turn my head and cough.

Our early afternoon flight out of Pokhara and to Kathmandu was, of course, delayed for several hours. We finally arrived into Kathmandu at 6:00 p.m. The whole while, Ram, as always, took care of us, helped us with our visa issues we still had to resolve, and found a driver to take us to our hotel. 

Once there, we met Prem, the owner of our tour company who introduced us to other company employees who were going to take us and other trekkers to our farewell dinner.

MK turned to Ram, "You're not going to come with us?" He shook his head no, he had to leave.

It wasn't until that moment did we learn that there was an illness in his family and he needed to get to his home as soon as possible. Ever the professional, he never once mentioned this to us earlier. Had we known, we would have forgone the stops and delays we requested of him to get our visa issues fixed back at the airport. Despite the pressing need to attend to his own personal issues, he instead took the time to make sure our issues were taken care of. 

After nearly two weeks together, we had become more than just an acquaintance- two customers and their guide. We had become friends. Our parting was rushed. He needed to go. It was understandable, but we wished we could spend more time saying a proper goodbye.

I pressed his tip into his palm. We gave each other a hearty man-hug and hand shake. MK gave a hug with kisses on the cheek. Ram gave the Nepalese sign of gratitude; palms pressed together, fingers facing sky-ward, and a bow of the head. He ran down the hotels steps, melted into the crowd of tourists and traffic on the adjacent street, and disappeared forever into the growing darkness of the evening. 

Our farewell dinner was fully paid for by the tour company. It was at a lovely restaurant with traditional Nepalese food and entertainment by dancers in traditional dress. We were joined by several Australians and a young British couple.

The Australians were very friendly. They were successful in their Everest base camp trek. The British couple had just finished the 21 day Annapurna Circuit trek. He, like Thomas from the other day, had been traveling for the past five months. He was a dead ringer for the actor Hugh Grant. He met his companion while on the trail where she decided to join him for the rest of his travels. 

Back at the hotel, we were intimidated with all of the repacking and sorting of gear we had to do in preparation for our flight home the following day. We figured it could wait until the morning. Instead, we looked at pictures and recapped the wonderful journey we just accomplished.

For sure there were the moments of cold, rain, sweat, hard work, and illnesses. But there were the other more enjoyable moments of mountain views, meeting wonderful people from all over the world, and the warmth and hospitality of the Nepali people. 

Before switching off the lights and getting into bed, I turned to MK. "Where should we go on our next adventure?" 

She looked at me over the top of her reading glasses. She had been through a lot and was not in the mood for another grueling adventure any time soon.

"I'm thinking something more relaxing,” she said sternly. “How about beach time. Cancun maybe?"