In 2013, MK and I trekked in Nepal’s Himalayas,
spending time both pre- and post-trek in Kathmandu and Pokhara. This is part 5
of an 8 part series on our experiences. Please use this site’s search function
to read other parts of this Nepal series.
The
skies cleared just enough this morning to expose towering, snow clad peaks
hovering over us and our surroundings. Machhapuchhre (also know as the
"Fish Tail") and Annapurna South were impressive with their
immensity. All of us tumbled out of rooms to take pictures, not knowing how
long such views would last before the clouds would again roll in.
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| The "Fish Tail" shows itself in the early morning light |
I
had tummy problems throughout the day, feeling crampy and nauseous for most of
it. Along with some medicine, the best way I found to combat the queasiness was
to keep walking. Anytime we would stop to rest or have a water break, I would
get chilled and feel terrible. So, we kept moving.
The
trail took us down and around a large valley. Our first stop was a spectacular
view of terraced fields and the waterfalls around us. The views were
really inspiring. Even though we had our share of tough rock and stair climbs
today, it was the first day that we had somewhat of a lesser grade to walk up.
Passing
through one village we came across a family of four young boys that were all
picking on each other and fighting. We were all entertained by them until their
mom showed up and yelled at them in a language we didn't understand, but the
intent was clear. All of them stopped fighting and three of them got
their bottoms spanked.
Soon after, we ran into three young girls (we assume
sisters) all playing together. They were running around, playing with a
make shift swing and generally keeping each other entertained. Like all
of us know with kids, that always lasts until someone throws something at
someone else. One of the girls started crying and was almost
inconsolable. Her parents were too busy to give her too much attention and
sent her out to play with her sisters again. MK and I both thought she
just needed a nap, but her parents were too busy to worry about that at the
moment.
The climb afforded us views of terraces covered with
millet fields and little farm hamlets. Far down below was the silver ribbon of
a fast moving river. Even at our great heights, we could hear the roar of the
river below. In several instances, we would need to cross side streams
and eventually the main river itself via rickety suspension bridges.
In
the afternoon the views were obscured by a lowering cloud cover. Rain was in
the offing. I was weakened by my illness. It was all I could do to muster the
will and stamina to keep moving, now up the other side of the valley toward our
destination.
Local
farmers and villagers would meet us coming down the trail; others would scamper
past us as we lumbered up the trail with our packs. One villager, obviously
drunk, kept looking at us, saying "namaste" (hello), over and over in
a slurred speech. The clothes he wore didn't look like they had been washed for
weeks. Our guide said he was definitely a little intoxicated!
We
continued our climb. At one village, we came up on a school with a sign near
the volleyball court asking for a donation to help make improvements to their
facilities. A small donation box was placed beside it in which we placed some
rupees. A dozen or so feet away, at the cliff's edge, were several wild
marijuana plants. One of the trekkers was a police officer and sniffed it
out. We found it very funny that a pot plant was growing right outside
the school!
Near
the end of the day, we were above 7,000 feet in elevation. The clouds continued
to descend. It became misty. We arrived at our guest house in Chhomrong just as
it started to pour, thankful we didn't have any more walking for the day in
these chilly and wet conditions. Ironically, the name of our lodge was called
the "Excellent View" lodge, despite being socked in with clouds and
fog.
It
was MK's turn to be sick the following morning. She had the same nausea,
stomach cramps, intestinal issues, and general malaise that I did
yesterday. The clear morning skies and wonderful views of the mountains
did little to cheer her up.
We
ate breakfast at a window facing the views. Although eating was the last thing
MK wanted to do, she knew that she had to force it down since she would need
all of the energy she could muster. We would descend 1,000 feet to a village
called Bamboo from the day's starting elevation of 7,000 feet, only to climb
again another 2,000 feet to our day’s finish point at Dovan.
While
eating, the smell of marijuana smoke wafted into the dining area. We couldn't
see where it was coming from. Ram told us that oftentimes the porters would
light up before breakfast, readying themselves for the haul up the mountains
with our and other tourists' gear. We couldn't tell if SuZen was one of them.
His eyes looked clear and sparkly when we first saw him come in for his
breakfast. Although when we saw him a little later, he was hungrily wolfing down his food, eating with his
fingers, which is the custom among the porters.
Hey...wait! I was nauseous yesterday and MK is the
same today. They say pot helps with nausea. Maybe we should join the porters
and partake!
Our
descent began soon after starting. The river below, which again was this thin
little ribbon of silver as seen from our great height, came closer and closer.
Soon the roar of the water was deafening.
Near
the suspension bridge crossing this silty, glacier fed river, was a small
schoolhouse made out of straw and mud. Sitting outside were four or five young
children. They were all laying on a blanket, working on their spelling. I could
hear them talk aloud as they wrote. They were being taught English by the
teacher who was sitting nearby. She was cutting up vegetables while commanding
the children to say aloud their ABCs in English.
We
continued upriver. The valleys walls towered thousands of feet above us.
Waterfalls were everywhere. For those that have been to Yosemite back in the
States, you know how majestic and beautiful waterfalls can be. Here in this
valley, there are ten just as majestic waterfalls for every one that you would
see at Yosemite. It is simply an unbelievable sight. From one vantage point, we
could see five waterfalls, all with long drops far into the valley below. We
would cross the side streams they would create via stone and wood plank
bridges.
By
noon, MK's condition was worsening. She was very light headed. We were now
through Bamboo and heading up toward Dovan. She was moving slowly. Ram offered
to carry her pack. At first she refused, but relented when I told her there was
no shame in accepting his help. He
gladly hoisted her pack, strapping it to his chest, much like a mother who
straps her infant to her chest using a baby carrier.
We
stopped frequently for rest and drinks of water. MK was so weak, her lower lip
quivered. She said she felt like crying but knew that wouldn’t help. Instead,
she soldiered on. I was worried about her. At the same time, I was impressed
that she could muster the will to keep at it. I don't know of many other women
who could endure what she was enduring. The cloud ceiling was lowering. Rain would
likely fall soon. If it does, it will double MK's misery index.
Other porters, as always, move past us swiftly. One was
wearing a thin t-shirt with a white and orange bathing suit bottom. It had
images of palm trees and sailboats on it. I told MK that he is probably the one
who led the marijuana party back at breakfast this morning. She tried to laugh
but couldn’t.
We
rounded a bend. There sat Ram patiently waiting for us. He told us we only have
five minutes to go before we arrive at our guest house. I saw the relief wash
over MK's face. I felt relieved for her. I helped get her out of her wet
and sweaty clothes into clean and dry thermal underwear and then into her sleeping
bag to rest, warm up, and sleep a well deserved sleep. She would need her
medicine and deep rest for we have 3500 feet of elevation to climb
tomorrow.
I
cheerily greeted MK with birthday wishes the following morning. It would end up
being a birthday that she would remember forever, not just because she turned
50 years old, but because of the endurance she would need to overcome the hardship
and illness she would experience throughout the day ahead.
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| Should she sleep or push on? |
She
was feeling just as poorly as she did when she went to sleep last night. We
talked about the option of her staying back while I went ahead. I didn't want
to push her in her state, but I did say she should consider whether or not she
will regret it in future years if she decided not to proceed further up the
trail. After a hearty breakfast, she made the decision to continue on.
But
my how she struggled. Ram feels that MK is also exhibiting symptoms of altitude
sickness. Three steps, rest, another three steps, then rest again. The 5 1/2
hours this segment was supposed to take instead ending up be just over 8 hours.
She was a determined woman!
Up
the valley we climbed. The mountains were brilliant white with their snowcaps
occasionally shrouded in fog and clouds. Waterfalls were again everywhere. One waterfall was all that was left of a major snow
field that Ram said regularly avalanches off of the valley wall and down into
the river far below. Our path traversed this avalanche chute.
Many
other trekkers and their guides and porters would pass us by. Nearing 4:00
p.m., it was clear we would be the last ones into the guest house. The only
remaining people on the trail were young shepherd boys leading their flock of
sheep up the trail with us. In fact, the sheep were moving along faster than we
were!
At
dusk, we came into Machhepuchhre Base Camp, or MBC, located at 11,500 feet
above sea level. This would be our stop for the night. It is from here that
climbers in years past would make their attempt to climb Machhepuchre, also
known as the Fish Tail, which is uncanny in its resemblance. The Nepali
government no longer allows climbers to attempt this peak. So instead, the area
is used for lodges and guest houses.
As
the sun set, it illuminated all of the mountains that encircled us. We also
have our first view of Annapurna itself. Tomorrow, we will awake at 4:00
a.m. to climb further up to Annapurna Base Camp at sunrise and into the
Annapurna Sanctuary itself.
A video of our ascent (both parts 4 and 5 of this 8 part series) can be seen at the following link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRnkFbCIyxA
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