In 2013, MK and I trekked in Nepal’s Himalayas,
spending time both pre- and post-trek in Kathmandu and Pokhara. This is part 4
of an 8 part series on our experiences. Please use this site’s search function
to read other parts of this Nepal series.
Annapurna Mountain is the tenth highest mountain in
the world. The trek up to its base camp is a popular Himalaya destination for
trekkers, second only to Everest. However, it is not as rustic and demanding as
the Everest route. Instead of topping out at 18,000 feet as we would have with
the Everest trek, we will reach an elevation of 13,550.
Ramkumar (of Ram for short), our guide, is a native
of Nepal. He recently spent five years in South Korea where he met his wife. In
six months, once his work visa is renewed, he will be going back to South Korea
to be with her, their little boy, and his better paying job at building ships.
He is a welder and a grinder, helping to build those ocean-going container
ships you sometimes see off on the horizon when lounging at the beach.
He didn’t practice his English very much while in
South Korea. He did say that he looked forward to this trek with us so that he
could converse with us to help re-master the language. Of course, he is very
fluent in the Korean language. In fact, he would often converse with Korean
trekkers who didn't have a guide but needed help with directions and lodging.
He is also fluent in Hindi (India's predominate language), Urdu (spoken in
Pakistan), and, of course, Nepalese. What an intelligent and amazing young
man!
SuZen
is our porter's name (we think, it was never made clear). He speaks very little
English and is shy, perhaps because of it. So he wouldn't respond when we asked
again to repeat his name. "Yes, yes," was his reply.
The
four of us, along with the driver, all crammed into a small sedan for the one
hour drive from Pokhara through the mountainous terrain northwest to Nayapul,
our trek's starting point. A light rain made the road slick. Hairpin
curves and steep grades occurred frequently.
Our
driver had no fear. He'd pass lumbering trucks and other slow vehicles
regardless of the road ahead. Straight
aways with oncoming traffic? No problem. We'd pass the slower vehicles
regardless. Blind curves? Not an issue. Just gun it and hope that anyone coming
from the opposite direction can stop and move out of the way, somehow.
At
one curve, there was a jeep-like vehicle with its front tires on the road and
it rear tires and back end hanging off of the ledge, teetering as if it would
fall into the abyss and any moment. It was abandoned. No one, the driver nor
any passengers, were anywhere to be seen.
We
arrived at Nayapul around 9:00 a.m. Scores of other cars, trucks, and
buses were all jockeying for a place to park on this narrow stretch of road.
Trekkers from all four corners of the globe readied their packs. Many languages
were being spoken. The native Nepalis looked on with amazement and amusement
with all of the fancy gear and modern clothing most of us Westerners were
displaying.
Most
of the Nepalis present were either the shopkeepers or the guides and porters
for the trekkers. The shopkeepers hawked their wares. The wives helped push the
sale. One wasn't to be bothered with that job, instead sitting calmly on her
bench, breast feeding an infant with no attempt at modesty or privacy.
The
porters, ours included, busied themselves with stringing up the packs and gear
that will be carried on our behalf up and through the mountains. We could have
carried our own excess gear along with that which we needed during the day
while hiking. But no one was employing this method.
 |
Getting ready for our trek.(l to r) Ram, me, MK, and SuZen |
The
way things work here is that porters are hired to carry the excess baggage so
that the trekkers can have a more enjoyable hike without a heavy load on their
own backs. Seems exploitive; but that's the way it is, and to suggest otherwise
would deprive the porters much needed sources of income.
We
climbed through the valley using a well trodden path. Several times we crossed
rickety suspension bridges that spanned the roiling, glacial silt laden river
below. The trail passed through several small villages. Each had its own
variety of small guest houses, shops, and restaurants.
Peering
within homes and businesses as we walked by, you could see the Nepali women
toiling over open flames getting things prepared for the coming lunch hour.
Some were feeding their babies breakfast, while toddlers were crawling on the
floor playing with their food. At the shops, men would be stationed,
hoping for a sale from their sparse supplies of bottled water, soft drinks, and
various crackers and snacks.
Ahead
was SuZen. He kept a fast pace despite the heavy load of our gear he was carrying.
Ram would keep back with us and our slower pace. At times it would drizzle.
Otherwise it was an overcast day. Any views were hidden. For today, that was
probably a good thing. The heat and humidity were draining us. Any sunshine
would have added to our heavy sweating and the need for frequent water breaks.
After
three hours and an 1800 foot elevation gain, we arrived at our guest house in
Tikkedhungaa at 5151 feet above sea level. The Chandra guest house, like many
of the others we have seen, straddles the trail. It is relatively small with a
restaurant and shop adjacent to it. The rooms are very basic. There are two
beds and a small bench between them. That is it. Bathrooms are down the hall or
further down the hillside, to be shared by the many trekkers who kept arriving
throughout the afternoon.
Many
of us sat at a courtyard table drinking a beer or soda and having a good time. People
representing all countries and nationalities were present. Germans, British,
Chinese, Italians, Australians, and, of course, us Americans. All would speak
their native language when conversing amongst themselves. But all would convert
to English when speaking to others, the guest house owner, or their guides and
porters.
Our
conversation was interrupted when the Italians had to get up and move their
chairs off of the trail to allow room for a train of mules carry a heavy burden
of supplies up the trail to service other guest houses.
The
owner chatted with us for a bit. He wore an old Chinese military cap with the
red communist star on its front. He said that very few Americans ever come
through here. Too far of a distance, we supposed.
The
clouds and rain rolled in soon after the next day’s breakfast. It would be that
way for the entire day. We didn't even bother with
the rain jackets or ponchos. To walk with those on makes you sweat and you end
up getting just as wet as if you walked in the rain without them.
So, we got soaked. And so did the scores of other
trekkers who were on the trail with us. The best way to stay warm was to keep
moving. To take a break means you start to get chilled. We guessed the
temperatures were in the upper 40s. We could see our breath as we huffed and
puffed up the trail.
Our elevation gain today was a grueling 4,167 feet
up to Ghorepani which sits at 9,318 feet. This was the biggest one day
elevation gain MK and I have ever accomplished. This was like walking up the
stairs of Chicago’s John Hancock building four times in a row, and in
the rain as well.
The fatigue challenged our physical stamina. The
cold and the rain challenged our mental fortitude. You simply placed one foot
in front of the other, continuing to move up and forward, then resting every 15
minutes or so. You're tempted to quit. But you know you can't. Deep down, you
know you won't. You keep pushing despite the discomfort.
We stopped at a trail side restaurant. I was
dehydrated and thirsty. I made the mistake of buying a Coke from a bottle and
not a can. The bottles, I found out, are re-used after a not so hygienic
cleansing from the former user. After taking a sip, I saw a dark brown crust of
crud encircling the lip of the bottle. Repulsed, I set it aside and instead
ordered some soup, fried noodles, and hot black tea. It did wonders for
us. It strengthened us sufficiently for the final climb up and into
Ghorepani.
 |
| A nasty bottle of Coke would make you look like this too! |
It
rained hard overnight. I mean real hard. It started with a light pitter patter
on the metal roof of our guest house. Then it came down, and didn't let up. We
awoke at 4:15 a.m. in time to meet Ram for a side trip up to Poon Hill.
After one hour and gaining 1,000 feet elevation, the views from that vantage
point of the Annapurna Range at sunrise are supposed to be stupendous; the
operative words being "supposed to be." In the dark, with headlamps
shining in each of our faces, Ram said we need to cancel. There would be no
views of the mountains this morning.
Despite
the rain and gloom, this was one of our more scenic days so far. For one long
stretch, we hiked through canyons and around creeks. Cascades and waterfalls
were everywhere. Water dripped from deep green mossy rocks. Large, centuries
old rhododendron trees blanketed the area. It was muddy going, but very special
as well. It was almost Shangra-La like. At one point, we expected nubile young
maidens and virile young lads to come out from the woods to lead us to their
respective lairs.
Further
along the trail, a bigger guy, clearly out of his league in enduring the
grueling nature of this trek, let out a big, loud fart while negotiating a
steep series of rock stairs. The porters and I looked at each other and started
to laugh. I was pleased to learn that a fart is
funny in any language and culture. Ram couldn't hold back and laughed with
us. MK was beside herself, doubled over
in her own laughter. She continued this way for the next five minutes or so.
All the while, the offender was oblivious to us as we laughed up the trail
behind him.
We
stopped for lunch at a cliff side guest house and restaurant. The place was
very simple and basic. SuZen took time to play a drum and sing us and others a
little Nepalese song. Nearby, a little toddler was trying to feed his
grandmother a little toy in her tiny fist. It was a lovely scene. The love
between grandmother and granddaughter transcends all international borders.
One
lady was squatting near a spigot washing the dishes just used by the restaurant’s
previous patrons. The source of the water was from the same stream we walked
along for a good part of the late morning. As I ate lunch, I tried not to think
about all of the horse and mule manure we saw mixed with mud and scattered
along the trail, draining into this same stream, part of which was now used to
wash the very same dishes we were eating out of.
Our
end point for the day was in Tadapani, a small village made up of only a few
lodges and restaurants. It sits at an elevation of 8,563 feet. We lost some of
the elevation we gained yesterday. Tomorrow, we would lose even more.
Our
accommodations were simple, much like the others we have been in throughout the
hike so far. Oftentimes, the showers are hot. But that is only the case if you
arrive relatively early in the afternoon before the other trekkers arrive and
use up the supply of hot water. At some spots, the hot water is produced with
solar panels. After a cloudy and rainy day, one is out of luck. In these cases,
if you want a shower, it will have to be a cold one.
Menus
at all of the guest houses are similar. There are ample food options from which
to choose. Noodles and rice dishes prevail, although most make a decent pizza.
Adding meat to your dish is recommended only at the lower elevation villages.
Since porters haul in all supplies, any meats they carry may be spoiled by the
time they reach the higher spots.
We see many of the same people when we arrive at the
guest house for the night. We also meet many new people from all over the
world. We continue to learn from many that they too were rebuffed with the
weather and had to redirect their Everest base camp trip to this Annapurna base
camp trip instead. The guest houses on our route are filled to capacity
each night as a result. We've seen some trekkers who didn't have a guide or
reservations being turned away, having to move on down the trail and hope for a
room opening at the next village.
A video of both Parts 4 and 5 of this 8 part Nepal series can be seen at the following link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRnkFbCIyxA
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